STAY: Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
Centrally located in the French Quarter, it's Hanoi's grand dame, her expression of what the Raffles Hotel is to Singapore, the Peninsular to Hong Kong.
Initially I was unsure about its size (too many rooms) and the bathrooms tiled in red, when studying its pictures on-line.
Once we got there however, I was instantly relieved! There was much attention paid to service, to ambience. Relief! Colonial charm at its very best.
The red used in the bathroom also turned out to be more attractive when encountered in the flesh.
Relief! A well-dressed bathroom!
EAT: Pho. Hanoi is pho capital.
Quan Pho Thin, 13 Lo Duc, is supposedly the place to go for pho. We didn't have that much time, so opted to just eat at the hotel/ordered room service.
DO: (only if you enjoy the sort of things I do)
1. Binh Minh Jazz Club, in the alley right behind the Opera (below)
Just cross the road- if you make it across in one piece, simply follow the music!
2. Manzi Gallery, 14 Phan Huy Ich
Non-tourist spot! "Restored" period crumbly housing a simple cafe and contemporary art. My heart got thumping!
3. St Joseph's Cathedral, Nha Tho Street/ Old Quarter
I watched a documentary where a young artist compared the streets behind this church to the Marais, so thought it would be a good starting point for walking and feeling.
Quite frankly I didn't get the Marais feel, but the cathedral itself, called to mind, Bruno at Notre Dame, exactly a year ago, last March!
4. Walk & Walk
I really love walking a city to feel its pulse and observe the world around me.
Woah. Imaginative, urban dwellings.
Woah. Spotted- one dog being walked along Hoan Kiam Lake.
Woah. A group of young artists preparing for an exhibition of anarchistic work in an abandoned office.
***
Walking through the Old Quarter, I repeatedly heard Jon behind me, saying- No, No, thank you. After successfully crossing the 3rd street, I turned around- Who's harassing you, Baby?
Some guy wanting to shine my shoes!
Huh?! Tell him to leave you alone! Never mind, I'll tell him for you!
Baby, walk beside me, it's safer that way...
***
5. Tea/Drink Poolside at the Sofitel
Perfect reprieve from the bustle of the city, potential shoe-shiners/cobblers, and resting one's feet.
TAM'S TIPS: 1. To cross any street, you are going to have to jay walk briskly with respect to the motorists, and with calm confidence. The alternative sucks- you will either never get anywhere, rooted to one spot, or be knocked over, even while rooted at said spot.
2. Carry American dollars (small notes). Many street vendors/stores only accept payment in American dollars.
3. When getting hair done at a local beauty parlour, remember that beauty can also be lost in translation.
"Please blow my hair curling the ends inwards, with some volume at the crown of my head", even when said with choreography, could easily be re-interpreted as "Please blow my hair out making it look as large as a wedding cake with tiers at its ends, thank you!"
4. And when the eager stylist has spent the morning ripping hair away from scalp, forcing your naturally straight hair to yield and curl into bread roll-like shapes, remember to smile and nod, smile and nod, and tip. In American dollars.
***
LAST THOUGHTS: A gently seductive city, with a complex history echoed through its streets and walls, if only we care to listen.
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