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Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Where the Sun Also Rises

Because Venice turned out to be shockingly exorbitant, and Lapland (icy cold tourist trap) is not my husband's idea of a vacation, Summie suggested, Spain.

Ah, Spain.  Where the Sun Also Rises!

We've never been to Spain before.  Things that come instantly to mind are Ferdinand and Isabella, the Habsburg Empire, tapas, Guggenheim Bilbao, Hemingway, Goya, and flamenco.

From London, there is a choice of budget airlines that services the Iberian Peninsular.  I wanted an authentic Spanish experience, so as to give my daughter a chance at experiencing the language as living culture.

We arrived in Madrid, wide-eyed, eager.  The hotel we decided upon proved to be an excellent find, centrally located right across from the Opera House (Teatro Real), and thoughtfully decorated in the old-world style I so love.  There was careful attention to details- pressed-fabric covering all surfaces, breakfast served on antique trays, white linen arranged artfully, fresh flowers, and beautiful art displayed everywhere.

The entrance to Casa de Madrid (Arrieta, 2) was concealed on the second level, away from the street.  The building was constructed in the 18th century, and I fell hard for its interiors, patterned wooden floors, tall windows, and the juliet balconies.  


It felt very much like having one's own sensitively furnished apartment right in the heart of the old town, with kind concierge services thrown in (muchos gracias, Paula!).

We found the locals very helpful, and warm.  Say, Hola, Gracias, Adios,  Un momento par favor, and one is immediately met with smiles and nods.  Once she got over being tongue-tied in a Spanish-speaking environment, Summie proved her mettle, rapidly translating.
At a crazy jamon y cuesos y jamon y vino store off Calle Arenal frequented by locals, she helped her father buy some vino.  Later, she helped me with some home-made ice-cream.

 The notoriously late hours Madrid keeps also worked in our favor, as Jon was jet lagged.
  
The leisurely pace of dining, and arriving at sights also suited my extremely relaxed family.
3pm and the lunch crowd begins to stream in... awesome!
Another factor that made our trip even more enjoyable was that winter is not the preferred time by tourists- so we did not have to deal with throngs of people at the sights, and enjoyed the city from a more local perspective.

There is excellent food easily available, but Paula suggested a local favourite- El Pimiento Verde off Plaza Mayor.
We found out that water is delicious in Madrid.  If you prefer it from a tap, ask nicely- Un agua de grifo par favor, and smile.

We saw flamenco at Casa Patas, where you walked past the restaurant up front, into a tiny room and listened to the most heart-breaking of music strummed and sung.  We were silenced by Picasso's Guernica at the modern art museum (Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Sofia), sat for coffee on the top floor of the Caixaforum, then stood in line for free admission at the Prado.

It was a very relaxing, enjoyable holiday for us.  Madrid offered something precious to each of us, as well as collectively as a family.  I think the last time we had as much fun together on holiday, was when we vacationed at Uncle G's house in Bali.


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