The Meadows

Every morning in Edinburgh, Bruno and I take a walk through The Meadows.

There's great architecture on the fringes of the park.

There is a sign pointing in the direction of the Union Canal.  I think if we keep walking towards that, we just might find, the Water of Leith.

One day, if we ever return, I hope to climb Arthur's Peak with Brunz.

Arthur's Peak, as seen from the grounds of Prestonfield's last fall.

For now, we'll just hang out on lower ground, enjoy the

 sheer expanse of green, and the absence of tourists.

The Meadows, Melville Drive, Edinburgh, Midlothian, EH9 9EX

Day 3, Edinburgh

I wonder if I could live in Edinburgh.

photo credit- SC

I'm repeating myself.  But the city is rather hypnotic, too handsome for words.  Arthur's Peak, the castle, cobble-stoned streets that twist and turn, and oh the encompassing ocean.  

Every morning, I awake with the desire to walk and walk, get lost, get found.  Bruno and Summie are game.  But there's a little problem.

My traveling champ draws too much attention.

(GROAN.)

There's a dog on her lap!  He's wearing a jumper!  He's eating at the table!

(GROAN!)

I have been thoroughly spoilt by Paris.  I'm not comfortable with this sort of attention at all.  I really prefer invisibility in any city.  

No such luck here.

Is that really a dog?  What's his name?  Where are you from?  Are you Japanese?  Say that again, you sound so posh!

(GROAN, GROAN, GROAN!)

Dogs are not allowed at Harvey Nicholas, but not unwelcome at Topshop.

Waiting for Summie at Topshop

  In New Town, we had lunch at Bon Vivant, 55 Thistler Street.  Back on Holyrood, Bruno was offered a bowl of water.

There are bus-loads of tourists- Japanese, Chinese, Americans.

The Japanese wear matching hats.  The Chinese huddle and hunch.  The Americans ask the strangest of questions- Does the College (University) provide every student with an iPad?

Above this din, I hear the hymn of bagpipes sung.  

Courtship

So, now we are officially, Empty-Nest-ers.  The very first thing we did after leaving Cheltenham was take TJ out, celebrate her birthday, attempt painting the town red.

  Bruno and I don't do late nights anymore.  I awoke with a hang-over the next morning, and very nearly missed our train to Edinburgh!

In the nick of time!!!

The Empty Nest?  It feels a lot like Courtship.  You go on a trip together, you eat in adult places (factoring Bruno into the equation of course), you hold hands when walking, spend long moments talking and listening to each other.  You kind of get to know each other again, but without the anxiety of having to impress.

You take pictures of each other because there is a part of you that wants to hold these moments, when you were (still) young, when you were young, forever.

Best of all, Courtship now is enacted on a stage built on the firmest foundations. You don't think of escape routes (what if, but,never mind, just divorce).  

Girl meets Boy.  Boy meets Girl.  For a long while, God and Life willing, they live happily every after.

Edinburgh Eats

My husband J rarely takes a  vacation.  When he does, he prefers lazy days, sleeping in, and dining out.  In Edinburgh, he was curious about The Kitchin.  I contacted them to ask if Bruno could be accommodated.  They regretfully said no, but helpfully suggested another of their restaurants- The Scran & Scallie.

 Located about 10-minutes from Old Town, Stockbridge is a lovely neighbourhood with just the right mix of cute independent stores.  Tom Kitchin seems to be the prodigal chef returned home, and putting Edinburgh firmly on the culinary map.  The Scran & Scallie is a warm gastropub, and the food (locally-sourced) excellent.  J is convinced its his best meal he's had in the UK so far.  Bruno nibbled on bread, and fell asleep.  I had a generous portion of cauliflower and cheese.

On our last night in Edinburgh, we ventured to Leith, by the shore, to eat at The Vintage.  I was curious about Leith as it is reportedly experiencing some kind of food/art renaissance.  In the darkened night, Leith appeared tired and on the cusp of gentrification.

Standing outside The Vintage on a tired street corner.

Inside, The Vintage was rocking and the noise-level deafening.  J had a lamb stew of sorts and an American ale.  I ate the vegetarian special (risotto).  Many locals are worried that The Vintage is getting too popular with its ascending cult status.  I wasn't crazy about my dish (vegetables were cut too chunkily), but appreciated the spartan sense of design, local-feel, terrific service, and dog-friendly stance.

The Vintage, 60 Henderson Street, Leith EH6 6DE

Prestonfield House- Interiors

Here's a glimpse at More is More is More... 

One of the many drawing rooms in the hotel.

The room above leads out to this patio space.

Close up view of the crazy ceiling in the above room.  More is more is more.

An elegant dining space (there are many).

Above the entrance hall.  I looked up and was freaked out by Cupid (left)!!!

Stairwell right outside my room.  The drawings are of the house (beautiful!), done in 194X when its owners worried that Prestonfields would be bombed by the invading Germans.

Breakfast is served in our living space, with generous views of the grounds.

Leopard-printed carpeting, gold-themed wallpaper, and ancestral portraits.  Not for the faint-hearted.

I like this antique desk, mirror and the orchids, but I'm not sure about the man in the painting staring down at me...

The bathroom with mosaic, marble and fresh flowers gets two thumbs up!

Silver-painted sleigh bed... I have no idea how Bruno managed to jump vertically onto it.  

Prestonfield House, Priesfield Road, Edinburgh, Scotland EH16 5UT

Prestonfield House, Edinburgh (Brief Thoughts)

Yesterday, we caught the 14:00 train from King's Cross right at 14:00 as my head has gone to mush since sending Summie off to school.  All that sense of responsibility, punctuality, organizational skills I once possessed, have somehow dissipated.

In this vegetative state, I arrived in the magical city of Edinburgh.  

Prestonfield House is about a 10-minute taxi ride refuge from the heart of town. It sits on acres of lush land, in the shadow of Arthur's Seat, with resident cows and peacocks roaming its grounds.  

Prestonfield House, side view, Arthur's Seat in the background

Bruno could not believe his luck.

 After having to be on his very, very best behaviour for a 4.5 -hour train ride, I let him off his lead, and he jubilantly dashed away and back.

Bruno practising the re-call command...

 Forget Minimalism.  More is more is more.  The rooms are opulent.  Every nook and cranny is filled with antiques.  The walls are papered, painted red, hung with rows and rows of period etchings and paintings.  There is complimentary champagne served on arrival and a bucket of fresh lavender placed in the room.  

Spot the bucket of lavender!

Service is swift, helpful, discreet.  Breakfast is stupendous and included in the room rate.

  I'm not sure if I would stay here again, but for this brief trip, it meets our needs and allows a temporary escape into history and period design.

Bruno our seasoned traveler with his EU passport?  Wastes nary a moment making himself, right at home.

The Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Edinburgh, Scotland EH16 5UT